For Sale:  Stage 3 Maximum PSI Turbocharged E46 M3

The car was built for a friend/customer living in Uruguay and was completed in 2014.  He flew out to NJ in the summer of 2014 to enjoy taking the car to MPACT at Pocono Raceway, and then flew home.  It has been driven periodically through the last few years, and has been stored indoors down in southern Florida.  Technically it is still a new build that was never delivered.  It is an amazing car.  The plan was to purchase a donor vehicle in the US, turbocharge it, and have it imported to South America.  After 3 years of red tape, it is apparent that the car is not able to be shipped to Uruguay, and my customer has decided to sell the car.

2004, Black on black, ~85k miles

660whp 93 octane, 809whp MS109











Maximum Psi Stage 3 Turbo Kit – 6MT – Catless
3.5″ downpipe, full 3.5″ exhaust with quad tips and e-cutout
ATI balancer
UUC feramic twin disc clutch kit
Remove tint from rear lights, re-clearcoat
Remove subframe, reinforce chassis with plates, install, align vehicle
Poly subframe bushings
Poly rear trailing arm bushings
DSS axles
modified multi-plate E32 diff assembly
Racelogic traction control – E46 CAN firmware, black digital adjuster
Stop-tech Radi-cal big brake kit – black caliper, non-j hook rotors
BW/C&R Radiator
bimmerworld silicone rad hoses
HD Electric fan, install kit, relay harness
BW/C&R Oil cooler
Power steering pump
Radar-mirror modded mirror for V1 radar detector and DM100
PLX boost
Michelin Pilot rears

Interior: 8/10
New Interior Pieces (cup holders, center console)
New OEM shifter was installed about a couple years ago
Custom painted interior trim pieces (Semi-Gloss black)
V1 radar detector
Weathertech floor mats
Interior Xenon Bulbs
Solaris Invisibulbs

Exterior: 8-9/10
Lightwerkz Quad Projectors (6000k outer/3000K inner)
VMR 19″ Ultra Staggered CSL reps (Only wheels)
KWV2 Coilovers
Status Gruppe CSL Front Bumper (Shaved intake hole)
Michelin pilot sports Ps2 275/30R19
Tekarbon Diffuser
AC Schnitzer Strut Bar (Paint Flat Black)
Tinted Windows 35% Side 15% Back
Jet Black Side Gilles
Jet Black Hood Grills
Smoked Corner Lights
Black and Chrome Emblems For Trunk And Hood
Monochrome badges for gilles

The cost of the car, the parts, and the labor was well over $75000.  Buyer is motivated to sell, please make an offer.  Please contact for more info.

Maximum PSI F8X M3 updates – keyed crank hub in testing!

We decided to purchase a F80 M3 for our latest shop car in late 2015. The S55 motor found in the new M3 and M4 is an awesome powerplant, and we fell in love with the new body style.  We quickly developed multiple bolt-on parts for this platform including front-mounted intakes, silicone charge pipes, and downpipes.  The car went from stock to full bolt-ons including turbo upgrades and fuel system changes in a short period of time.  We quickly jumped into the #1 drag racing spot with a 10.2@137mph in the 1/4 mile.  Everything was great.  We made some additional changes, and then our M3 suffered from a spun crank hub.  This happened with only ~3000 miles on the car.  We quickly discovered most of the exhaust valves were bent, and we pulled the motor and put the car on the back burner.   TPG tuning was another vendor that had experienced this failure early on, and while they tried to come up with a solution for their car and customers, there were some failures with some of their earlier hub solution attempts.  The BMW forums went on a witch hunt trying to accuse TPG of selling parts for a failure that didn’t exist, and a lot of drama popped up on multiple sites.  I understand the frustration of customers that purchased an upgraded part that still failed, but TPG was only trying to offer the community a solution to a problem that is very real.  To anyone unfamiliar with the S55 timing gear/crank hub design you can read up by clicking here.

We eventually got the car back together with upgraded rods and pistons, and we installed an aftermarket crank hub from another vendor.  It had a different bolt, and combined the hub and the first timing gear into a single part.  It still used the stock oil pump gear.  We hoped that it would fix the issue, however we knew there was a good chance it would spin again due to the lack of any sort of pin or keyway.   We rushed to get the motor and car assembled, and we took it to MPACT east in July 2016.  The car only made it about 5 passes before the hub spun again during a burnout before a 1/2 mile run.  This time we were lucky as there was no piston to valve contact.  We once again put the car to the side and dealt with our shop move to our current new facility in South Amboy, NJ.  At that point we decided to focus on making a new crank hub and gear design.  There were multiple design constraints, including assembly process, existing crankshaft snout design, and cost.  A new crankshaft with integrated gears would be my first choice, but it would be extremely expensive and would require a complete teardown of the engine and would be very annoying to assemble the chains since everything is one piece.  We opted for a design that had an interlocking crank hub, timing gear, and oil pump gear.  The three parts all lock together with beefy keyways, and the gears are new units made by us.  The tricky part was coming up with a design that was also keyed to the end of the crank, and we tackled that with a drill fixture and hardened pins.  The install requires dropping the oil pan and removing the timing components.  To anyone that is interested in our crank hub solution, please email us at to be put on a contact list.

We got our F80 M3 back together the week before MPACT 2017 with our keyed hub along with some more upgrades.  The car worked flawlessly on pump gas at MPACT, and we put it back on E85 after the event.  Since then we have been to the drag strip for two test days, and have made 5 10 second passes, including our new record of 10.1@139mph.  We will continue to romp on the car and try and put the components to the test.  We want to get some more time on our car and two other cars before making a larger second batch of gears, but the first test days were positive!  We look forward to pushing the platform further instead of worrying if the next drag pass is going to result in pulling the motor apart to rebuild or retime.

– Mike and the Maximum PSI team








Maximum PSI and Bimmer Clinic have joined forces!

Bimmer Clinic and Maximum PSI!  New location starting Feb/March 2017!

Looking for a reliable and qualified shop to service your BMW? Looking for a team of specialists to recommend and install performance parts and software? Look no further – Maximum PSI and Bimmer Clinic have teamed up to provide a one-stop shop for all of your BMW needs.  We have you covered for dealer-alternative BMW service and repair, performance upgrades, software/dyno tuning, and track prep/support.  Our new 11000 square foot facility is conveniently located in South Amboy, NJ near the Parkway, Turnpike, 440, 287, 9/35, and the South Amboy train station.  The new facility has a large customer waiting area that you can relax and enjoy a cup of coffee or pull out a laptop and get some work done while you wait.  We stock all the necessary BMW fluids, and have an extensive list of service tools to get the job done quickly and correctly, the first time.  We have multiple software solutions depending on your vehicle to maximize power, reliability, and fuel economy.

We are currently operating out of Bimmer Clinic at 1400 Rahway Ave, Avenel, NJ 07001 until our new building is ready in February/March(assuming no delays!).  Our new shop address is 7061 Rt 35 S, South Amboy, NJ 08879.  Please give us a call at 732-218-7632 or email to get a quote or set up an appointment.

Here is a list of some of our equipment:

Autologic, Rheingold/ISTA-D, INPA, GT1, Snap-on VARIS diagnostic tools
Extensive collection of OEM and aftermarket timing and service tools
Hunter hawkeye elite wheel alignment system
Hunter Tire machine
Hunter Road force tire balancer
7 Nussbaum lifts
Gruse MHT 1200 Hydraulic lift table (for complete engine/trans/subframe removal)
Miller Dynasty 300DX TIG welder
Snap-on, Lincoln, and HTP MIG welders
Dynojet Chassis dyno
Bentec Mandrel bender
JD2 Model 4 electric/Hydraulic bender
Huth bender/swager/expander
DoAll 13″ Vertical band saw
DoAll Horizontal band saw
Wilton Belt sander



Maximum PSI F8X Front Mount Intakes dyno test


We did some back to back testing with stock airboxes and then with our front mount intakes to see the actual gains on our shop M3.  Same day, same conditions, same car.

Test conditions:
Hood closed.  3 runs each, tested with engine and components at operating temperature with brief cooldown between runs.  DCT trans, 5th gear. Runs 0-2 are stock airboxes/filters/ducting.  Runs 4-6 are Maximum PSI intakes without socks

Test Vehicle:
2016 F80 M3
JB4 on Map 2 – 93 octane fuel
Maximum PSI catless downpipes
Stock exhaust

We were expecting 10-15whp at best at this power level, and possibly larger gains on E85, meth, etc.   Upon reviewing the results we immediately noticed a trend.   If you compare runs 0-2 vs 4-6 you can see significant gains above 5700rpm even with a JB4 and downpipes.  The gains will likely be better with higher power output cars(upgraded turbos, full exhaust, race fuel/e85, etc.).  We normally post all of our results with SAE correction, however the N54/N55/S55 community seems to use STD or uncorrected, smoothing 5.

STD corrected:




Here is a graph of the best run from the stock airboxes(blue) vs the best run from the Maximum PSI intakes(red).  You can see a notable gain in the upper rpm of over 30whp:






Why did our intakes make more power than stock (and other aftermarket ones)?  This is where I get to speculate a bit:

  • The oem system (and several aftermarket systems) use the factory ducting that basically draws air from the same place.  The oem system is completely sealed, and has a charcoal filter plus a paper one(restriction#1).  It then draws ALL of the air through the kidney ducts (restriction #2).
  • Aftermarket intakes that use the lower halves of the oem airbox and oem ducting have larger filter elements, however they are now drawing a blend of hot air from the engine bay and the air coming through the ducts.  That results in an unrestricted pipe, however AIT’s are higher, resulting in hotter charge air temps.  The intercooler is only as efficient as the air entering the system.
  • If you decide to try a drop-in filter like BMC or K&N you may eliminate some of the restriction, however it is still using a torturous path with rectangular passages and various less-than-smooth transitions.  Our system is 3″mandrel bent piping throughout.


We wanted to address a few customers questions and concerns:

We plan on making significant power with this platform, and took that into account when designing the intakes. We chose the filter size and location for performance and aesthetics. The filters are large, however BMW did an excellent job of ducting all airflow through the kidneys and into the heat exchanger and radiator, regardless of what is in front of the ducts. If it is needed, a slightly smaller filter length can be used. Until that point, this is the route that we prefer. There is plenty of airflow to go above and below the filters and into the ther cooling components. The filters simply get first prority.

We have obviously took into account driving these cars in the rain with exposed filter elements. I have done extended driving through heavy rainfall with no issues. The ratio of airflow going through the filters vs the amount of rain that will contact and be ingested through the filters is not enough to have any concern. People pay good money for water injection to allow for charge air cooling. Look at the M4 GTS that comes with water injection from the factory! I’m not saying we are intentionally trying to have water enter the system, only to say the small amount contacting the filter elements will dissipate long before there is any concern for water ingestion. Someone equated driving in the rain similar to spraying a power washer at the air filters. That is certainly NOT the case. A power washer directed at the filters.

Hot air:
Regarding hot air being drawn from the radiator to the filter, the only situation that would exist is sitting at idle, where it does not matter.  As soon as there is forward motion the car gets forced air into the kidneys. The airflow will be past the filters, and through the radiator.  There will not be enough time to have any heat radiating forward towards the filters.  We easily confirmed this on the dyno with relatively poor airflow.

Click here for more info and to purchase in our online store!